This is what people in Morocco say when you arrive safe and sound after a journey long or short. Our wish for you is that both your arrival and stay in Marrakesh be one that is safe, happy, and enriching to you as a student and human being.

It is for this reason that we’ve assembled --- in the order you might need it --- the information below. But whether your questions about Morocco and Marrakesh are included here or not, please never hesitate to ask about anything.

A lot of the things mentioned below concern trouble-shooting. Much of it you could probably find if you spent enough time on-line researching every question. Hopefully, this guide might save you some time.

PACKING

Clothes:

You’ll be visiting Marrakesh as spring is changing to summer, so you can expect some beautiful weather, perhaps some cool nights, lots of sunshine, and (sorry) some real heat. (See Climate below). Because this variation, layered – ideally cotton ----clothes will serve you best.

1. a week’s worth of underwear (and socks if you wear them)

2. loose-fitting short-sleeve shirts / blouses (or long-sleeved if your skin is sensitive to sun)

3. loose-fitting pants

4. if you normally wear shorts, they should be below the knee

5. a sun hat

6. sunglasses if you normally wear them

7. a swimming suit if you plan to swim

8. a sweater for the night you spend in the desert.

9. good walking shoes or walking sandals (Flip-flops are definitely NOT advised for walking around the medina or out on field trips since the ground is often uneven, flip-flops can cause you to trip, and your stubbed toe will have to deal with a whole new range of microbes it’s never met before! We don’t want anyone disabled with an infected foot.)

10. women should have a scarf for possible visits inside sacred shrines

Other clothes will be discussed by your group advisors.

For some clothes that are not recommended, see the cultural entry on Dress (click here) and also this photo gallery by a British woman, “What not to wear in Marrakech.” http://www.wanderlust.co.uk/gallery.php?gal_id=390

Health-Related:

If you take a prescription medicine, it’s best if you don’t have to re-fill your prescription while in Morocco.

If you wear glasses, you might consider bringing an extra pair.

If you wear contact lens and can carry enough of the solution for your stay, it’s better than paying twice as much for it here.

Soft, disposable contacts are not sold in Morocco.

A few common non-prescription drugs in Europe and America, such as ibuprofen (Tylenol) and multi-symptom cold medicines are not readily available in Morocco.

Bring sun-screen. It’s sold here, but costs more than in the States.

Also, we prefer that all visiting students bring some kind of water bottle that is re-useable to cut down on the plastic waste generated by the program.

Money

ATM cards can be used to make withdrawals (in dirhams) in Morocco. If you

wish to bring such a card, double check that it is working before leaving the States. Replacing a damaged ATM card from Morocco can be very difficult and time consuming. Also check with your bank as to the withdrawal limit you’d have in Morocco.

You don’t need to worry about getting dirhams in advance before coming to Morocco. Officially, they are a currency that is not imported, so they’re fairly hard to find in the States, anyway. You will be given a weekly allowance of taxi money in dirhams.

Copy of Passport and Important Credit Card Information

Before you leave the States, you should make a copy of the information pages of your passport and plastify them (which you can do at Kinkos).

Also, you should write down all your travellers checks numbers (and, in a confidential location, your credit card number) names, and contact information for each card, in case they are lost. Needless to say this information should not be kept in your wallet!

HEALTH

General Notes

Standards of health care in Morocco are generally quite good, though government clinics and hospitals often leave much to be desired. French-trained doctors, who often have experience dealing with a wider variety of ailments than their Western counterparts, are plentiful. Their staffs are consistently well-informed and have a wide variety of drugs for over-the-counter sale, many of which (such as antibiotics) would be available only by prescription in Europe or North America.

The ailment you’re most likely to encounter in Morocco is traveler’s diarrhea, which is a

natural consequence of any change in diet and water flora. The best remedy for this is simply to let it run its course: change your diet to plain rice, and avoid fresh fruit and raw vegetables. In more severe cases, the best remedy is either Imodium (sold in the US) or Ercefuryl (sold in Morocco).

Foods to avoid (at least at first!)

Many stomach problems can be avoided by staying away from certain foods, especially in your first couple of months in the country, and especially in hot weather. Among them:

1. Outdoor food stands in general. These places do not have hot water (or any connection to running water, for that matter). The stands set up in the Jama el Fna (see map at the end) every evening offer really beautiful, delicious-smelling food are very tempting, especially when you see them crowded with tourists and Moroccans alike.

2. Anywhere selling freshly-squeezed orange juice, either in the Jama el Fna or in a cafe. Nevertheless, Morocco has wonderful citrus fruit and you can buy very good bottled orange juice and other juices in the central market or even buy oranges and squeeze your own at home;

3. Soft drinks in cafes and cheap restaurants are best drunk straight from the bottle, and certainly not from the freshly “rinsed”, still- wet glass often set down on the table with you bottle of Coke. Hot drinks such as coffee or tea; however; are served very hot (coffee is steamed in the glass) and shouldn’t present a problem

4. Raw fruits and vegetables (especially lettuce) that can’t be peeled: this includes salads in inexpensive restaurants (and initially even in expensive restaurants) At home, it is advisable to soak raw vegetables in a solution of permanganate (available in small bottles in Pharmacies),

5. Pastries with cream filling

6. Ice cream (in cones) from street vendors or doubtful-looking glaciers (ice-cream shops).

Commercially-produced ice cream in cartons and bars is sold in many places and is generally safe.

This preceding list is not meant to make you paranoid - Moroccan food is really delicious and for The most part, Moroccans eat a healthy diet: warm, freshly-baked bread available twice a day at the corner grocery stand is a luxury you would be hard-pressed to find anywhere in America.

Water

Tap water in Marrakesh (and in most of the modern sections of larger towns) is safe, but again, drinking from a freshly- washed glass should also be avoided if possible. If you find yourself in the Medina and very thirsty, find a shop that sells small bottles of Sidi Harazem water. And generally, if you think you’re sensitive to the water, than boil it (10 minutes minimum) or stick to bottled mineral water, if possible. Brands widely available in Morocco include Sidi Ali, Sidi Harazem, and Hayat; Oulmes (pronounced Wul’mess) is a delicious sparkling water from the mountains between Rabat and Fes that is every bit as good as Perrier.

Bottled Gas:

Stoves, pressure-activated hot-water heaters and many portable room heaters in Morocco operate on bottled methane gas (“camping gas” or “butagaz” ). When methane burns it produces carbon monoxide which is deadly. Not many years ago two young American Peace Corps volunteers died from an illegally installed water heater. The same happened to an American researcher in Fes in 1999. These were all intelligent, educated people who were simply unaware of the danger of unventilated gas heaters. If you should find yourself in a situation where you are using bottled gas, please remember: don’t use a gas stove and or oven in a completely closed kitchen. And don’t use a gas heater in a room without ventilation. DON’T use a **pressure-activated gas water heater** that does not have a direct vent to the outside, and under no circumstances should you use a water heater mounted inside the bathroom in where you would take a shower. (Mounting a water heater in such a fashion is illegal in Morocco, but deaths from improperly installed gas heaters still occur..)

Sun

The sun in Morocco can be intense. You should be aware especially as the days move towards summer of how much sun you are getting. If you’re out walking and can choose to walk in the sun or shade, we would advise the shade.

If you or someone you’re with ever feel the symptoms of heat stroke coming on, the best response is

1. get out of the sun

2. lie down, if possible, and remove any extra clothes (socks, for example)

3. apply a cloth dipped in room-temperature water to the forehead and back of neck

4. begin to slowly sip some room-temperature water

5. if available, take in some salt or salty food

Diseases in Morocco

There are no mandatory vaccinations for Morocco, but it is probably a good idea to have typhoid, hepatitis A, tetanus, and polio immunizations brought up to date before traveling. For other details about health in this country, you can refer to WHO website, http://www.who.int/countries/mar/en/

If you feel you’re coming down with something, please don’t hesitate to talk to your professors or anyone in office of the CLC.

Pharmacies

In many cases, a pharmacist will be able to recommend a medicine for what ails you, saving you a wait in the doctor’s office. Business hours for pharmacies are typically from 8:30 to 12:30 in the mornings and 3:00 to 7:30 in the evenings. Most pharmacies close on Saturday afternoon and all day Sunday, but a few throughout the city stay open for emergencies. These pharmacies de garde are selected on a rotating basis and their locations and phone numbers are posted on the doors of all pharmacies.

The nearest pharmacy to the CLC is Pharmacie Nakhil, 11: Yacoub El Mansour Avenue, Ph: 0524 44-76-57. It is run by a husband and wife and the wife speaks English. Ask for “Sayyida Salwa.” If you look at the map at the end, you’ll see Yacoub el Mansour Avenue just above the CLC. It is a right turn from Rue Khalid ben el Oualid.

There are two pharmacies that open at 8:30 pm and stay open all night. One is in the

Gueliz, about 5 minutes from the CLC, near the fire station on Rue Khalid bin Oualid, Ph: 0524 43-42-75 [see map below, follow Rue Khalid b. Oualid from the CLC down to the Caserne Sapeurs Pompiers. The pharmaceutical depot is next door, and it does not look like a pharmacy!]. The other is in the Jmaa’l-fna, near the main police station (see larger map). Ph: 0524 39-02-38 ,

Clinics and Private Hospitals

There are also a number of modern, privately-run clinics and hospitals in Marrakesh. It is better to avoid government-run hospitals which treat the general, non-paying public and are frequently understaffed and poorly equipped. The following clinics near the CLC are recommended:

Polyclinique du Sud, Rue Ibn Aicha (0524 447 619, 0524 447 999), has a long standing reputation for good care in Marrakesh and Clinique Ibn Rochd (0524 434 058 / 0524 433 079)

http://www.polycliniquemarrakech.com/site/index.php?lang=en

Both of these are within walking distance of the CLC.

Doctors and Dentists

The following doctors and dentists are recommended should serious health or dental problems arise. If you need an interpreter (they all speak French and Arabic) or additional information, contact the administration.

General Practitioner: Gertrud Michaelis, 7 Rue Ibn Sina, Ph: 0524 44-83-43 (Speaks English, German, French and Moroccan Arabic)

Gynecologist: Claire B. Azzouzi, 5 Rue Sourya, Ph: 0524 43-44-46

Gastroenterologist: Abdeslam El Karouani, 48 Rue de la Liberte, Ph: 0524 43-26-82 (Speaks Spanish)

Dentist: Dr. Mouncif Lourida, Mohamed V Blvd. Speaks English. 0524 432 987

MONEY

A kind of general rule about the cost of things in Morocco is that what’s cheap in the States (manufactured goods, for example) is expensive here and what’s expensive there (labor, for example) is cheap here. If you can’t get along without some daily treat from America (Pringles, for example, which counts as an “imported food” here) you’ll see your money going a lot faster than you may want. A warm, freshly-baked small loaf of Moroccan barley bread (1 dh) can be just as satisfying as a tube of Pringles (30 dh)!

About the Dirham

Morocco’s official currency is the dirham, which is broken down into 100 centimes (which are usually referred as “francs”). An older way of speaking about money which is still very much alive in Morocco is the “riyal” equal to 5 centimes.

So, 1 DH = 20 Riyals = 100 Francs; and 100 DH = 2000 Riyals =10,000 Francs.

Or, in 1 DH = waahid dirham = ‘ashreen d’ryaal = miyat franc; 100 = miyat dirham = alfayn d’riyaal = ‘ashra alef franc.

In your Moroccan Arabic course, you will learn how to negotiate in these potentially confusing denominations (and also how to ask that a price simply be quoted to you in dirhams).

Finally, keep in mind that the dirham is not considered a hard currency outside Morocco. It is illegal to export a large amount of dirhams and also hard to find them being offered by currency exchanges abroad.

Exchange Rates

Exchange rates between, for example, dollars and dirhams, vary slightly from week to week, with the new rates posted on Monday. The on-line rate of exchange which can be found at such sites as http://www.xe.com/ucc/ is usually a few centimes higher than the rate found in Moroccan banks. Also note that there is one rate at which the bank buys foreign currency for dirhams and another (higher rate) at which it sells it.

Please note that the CLC is not able to exchange foreign currency.

Banking

Banks in Morocco now work continuous hours from about 8:30 AM until 3:45 PM. Most but not all banks close on Saturdays and Sundays but ATM machines are still available anywhere in the larger cities.

The nearest banks to the CLC are the SGMB bank (see map below—at the corner of R. Khalid b. Oualid and Avenue Yacoub el Mansour) and AWB bank attached to Acima supermarket (see upper right hand side of map) Both these are less than 5 minutes on foot from the CLC and both have ATM machines.

Several other banks can be found on or near Mohammed V Blvd.(see map, across from McDonald’s), about 10 minutes from the CLC. Many larger hotels also have facilities for exchanging money.

Receiving Money from the States

Practically the only way a traveler could get money quickly from abroad would be by Western Union (see map) or by ATM card (mentioned above). Check with your bank before you leave as to the daily and weekly limit you are allowed in Morocco.

ELECTRlClTY

Voltage and Plugs.

Electric current in Morocco is 220 (in the USA, it’s 110).

Most electronic items that students or teachers might bring with them to Morocco (laptops, Ipods, cameras) are dual voltage.

If you plan to bring something that is not dual-voltage, converters of varying capacities and prices are sold in Morocco and are generally cheaper than those you can find in the States.

In addition, the wall-plugs in Morocco are the two-prong, round French type. The CLC has a stock of converter plugs it can lend you during your stay, or else you can purchase one at a nearby electronics shop.

Cycles: 50 or 60 cycles?

All current in Morocco is 50 cycles per second whereas in the US it is 60, meaning that any US appliance which heats up (coffee makers, hair dryers, heaters, heating pads, electric blankets, iron) will not reach its full heat in Morocco. If you have a hair dryer, for example, that you plan on bringing or a travel iron, check the appliance’s voltage tab. If it says 50/60 cycles then it will work here. If not, not.

COMPUTERS

All laptops come with AC/DC transformer designed to run on voltage ranging from 110 to 240. The only things that might be needed in Morocco are a flat prong to round- prong plug adaptor (see Voltage and Plugs above).

The CLC has a 13-station computer lab and is covered by WiFi.

COMMUNICATIONS

Postal Services

Post Offices: The central post office of the new town of Marrakesh is located on the corner of Mohammed V and Avenue Nations Unis [9], a 10-minute walk from the CLC. You may weigh your letters, buy stamps, and send Registered Mail at the post-office from 8AM to 9PM, everyday, including Sunday. Other services are available during regular work hours, 9AM-12PM, 3PM-6PM, Monday though Friday.

Note: there is no postcard rate, postage being based on weight.

DHL, Fed Ex

Both of these have offices (right next to each other, in fact) in Marrakesh. If for some reason you needed to receive something quick, these would be the way to go. Note, however, that larger packages with certain declared values, may wind up having to be cleared through customs in Casablanca. A teacher received a, rather expensive new pillow and quilt bought as a gift for her at Bed and Beyond, and the duties exceeded the price!

Fixed Telephones

You may make calls from téléboutiques (small shops with pay phones and sometimes photocopy machines and fax services) using either a phone card or change. The phone cards which téléboutiques sell can only be used in teleboutiques run by the same company. Some international calling cards, including MCI, AT&T, and British Telecom, have a direct calling service from Morocco (you need the calling card and are billed to your home address at lower U.S./British rates). You probably will not be able to use a calling card on a pay phone-- only from a private line. See page 14 for access numbers.

Do NOT make any form of long distance call from your homestay phone. In any emergency, call the Center for Language and Culture. Read the Emergency Packet information for more information (before the emergency). In cases of extreme emergency collect calls can be placed through a private phone line by dialing 12 for the operator and AT&T or other calling cards.

Note: as in the States and Europe, Morocco has more and less expensive calling hours.

The prime, full-rate time is Monday - Friday, 8 AM to 8 PM. All other times are minus 50% on long-distance calls inside the country and minus 20% on international calls .

For international calls, dial “00”, then dial the appropriate country code , then the number. (Country code: USA =1, France=33, England=44. Germany = 49, Holland = 31, Spain 34).

Cell Phones

At orientation, a $25 deposit for a loaned Moroccan cell phone and cell phone charger (belonging to CLC) will be collected from each student. You will be given your cell phone the day after we arrive when we meet as a group the first time at the CLC. If you lose or damage your cell phone and/or charger, you will forfeit your deposit. There will a small number of minutes on the phones, but you will need to purchase Moroccan phone cards, the cheapest of which cost 50 dh. The cost of local calls on these Moroccan phones is reasonable. Unlike prepaid phones in the US, you can receive calls on these phones from anywhere at no cost. We strongly recommend that you do not make long distance calls on these phones, since the cost of long distance calls on them is exorbitant and will use up the minutes on your card in an instant. If loved-ones want to hear your voice, they can call you on your cell phone or at the CLC. This site, http://www.howtocallabroad.com/morocco/

gives clear instructions about how to do this. The CLC number from the US would be 011-212-524-447-691

Do you have an unlocked phone? How about roaming?

If you happen to own an unlocked phone (one in which you can use any SIM card you want), then you can purchase package containing a SIM card that will work in Morocco and some minutes for about 10 dollars. Some students have brought their cell phone from the US with roaming activated for Morocco. This also works fine, but it’s much more expensive than in Europe or England, for example.

lnternet Access

The CLC computer lab has 13 stations, a printer and scanner for your use. In addition the lab, several classrooms, and most of the area just outside the CLC are all covered by WiFi.

Marrakesh also abounds in cybercafés where you pay as little as 5-10 dh/hour. These places tend to be rather crowded and slow at night, but are usually fine during the day.

Skype

One of the best solutions for long distance calling is Skype www.skype.com.

Skype is a piece of free downloadable software that allows you to make internet calls either for free or at a very low rate to anywhere in the world. If your correspondent also has Skype (so, Skype-to-Skype call) the call is free. If not, or if you want to be able to call a fixed phone number, you need to set up a Skype paid account BEFORE you leave for Morocco (the site will not allow you to do this from Morocco). Generally, you buy time in 10 dollar amounts, paid in advance by a credit or ATM card. Calling the US from Morocco on Skype costs about 2.2 cents a minute.

TRANSPORTATION

In Town

City Buses stop at the main Guéliz stop [6] and are quite reliable. However the buses can be absolutely packed on some of the principle routes during peak hours. Buses run from 6AM to between 8:30 and 9:00 in the evening; fares for routes within the city are 3DH while the fare for those running outside city limits is slightly higher. NOTE: Crowded city buses in which passengers sometimes have to ride standing up can be venues for pickpockets.

Petit Taxis are the small yellow city taxis with roof racks. They are abundant and relatively inexpensive (about 8 DH from the CLC to the Jamalfna) and plentiful in the Ville Nouvelle. There is rarely any difficulty flagging down a taxi, and they can be found at all hours at different taxi stands. Note that the presence of a passenger in a taxi does not necessarily mean that the taxi is “taken”; one taxi may take up to three separate passengers, picking them up along the way if their destinations aren’t too out of the way. If you get into an already-occupied taxi, note the amount on the meter as you get in. Your fare should be the amount elapsed from getting into the taxi plus the initial charge of 1.4 Dh. Drivers in Marrakesh usually use their meters without any hassle so you aren’t expected to bargain about the price. There is a 50% increase in the fare at night. Unfortunately, there is no way of telephoning for a taxi in Marrakesh.

Taxi drivers work long hours for very little pay, so a small tip is always appreciated. For example, if the fare were 8 dh, a 2 dh tip, totaling 10 dh, would be quite fair.

Grand Taxis have routes within the city. Cost is about 5DH per seat. (See also here)

Coachies are horse-drawn coaches. They are of two kinds: those that work by the hour for tourists and those which follow fixed routes around the Medina. These latter are legimate public transport carrying 5 or 6 people. A pleasant coachy route not far from the CLC runs from just inside Bab Doukalla [23] and the Jamalfa and costs a couple of dirhams. Prices are now posted in all coachies.

Walking is also great. It is literally possible to walk from one end of the main city of Marrakesh to the other in about one hour, and it is an easy city to walk in except for sidewalks which, in some places, are in bad shape. As can be seen from map II, the CLC is located within easy walking distance from any place in the Gueliz, and only slightly further from the nearest gate of the Medina, Bab Doukkala, Walking in the evening during the warmer months is a great pastime in Marrakech. Whole families go out together, as do couples, and small groups of friends. For information pertaining to women walking at night, see Women in Morocco , below.

Travelling Out of Town

Buses: There are two recommended bus companies traveling in and out of Marrakesh:

Supratours and CTM (the Moroccan Greyhound). Supratours travels only to the south of

Morocco, while the national bus company, CTM (Compagnie de Transports au Maroc), travels to every region in Morocco, including the south. The coaches are generally quite fast, but you can expect most buses to stop at a number of towns and cafes for l0 to 30 minutes between destinations. CTM is located in Gueliz, on Zerktouni Avenue (Ph: 524- 44-83-28) [19] . Supratours is located on Hassan II Avenue, next to the old train station [18] (Ph: 524-43-55-25).

If CTM and Supratours buses do not fit your schedule, try the major bus station near Bab Doukala [23]. Many small bus companies operate out of this station and although their buses are older, not as comfortable, and slower, you can almost be assured of a bus headed in the right direction at any time of the day or night. Also, they serve smaller out-of-the-way locations and are cheaper than CTM or Supratours. CTM buses also leave from this station before they pick up in Gueliz (window #l0, Ph: 524- 43-44-02).

Tickets can be purchased up to five days in advance. Purchasing tickets early for CTM or Supratours trips is advised if you’ll be traveling on the weekend or during holidays. Expect to have to pay an additional 5 to 15 DH for luggage. Be sure to arrive at the bus station 15-20 minutes before scheduled departure. The baggage handler will expect a two-dirham tip.

Trains: A rail network of about 2,500 kms. links Marrakesh to most of the major cities and towns north of Marrakesh (south of Marrakesh, there is no train service).

Train stations in all the major cities are being renovated, and the trains themselves in some places are little better than in the past, but still quite a ways from trains in the US.

Trains offer first class tickets (with assigned compartments and seats) and second-class (take your changes and maybe even stand up). The difference in price to Casablanca, for example, is about 50 dh. All carriages are non-smoking by law, although people may smoke in the aisles outside the compartments.

There is also regular between Casablanca’s international airport and Casablanca’s two main train stations with regular 20 - 30 minute trips in either direction every hour or so.) The train station in Marrakesh is located on Hassan II Avenue (Ph: 44-65-69) [18]. You can get a free schedule at the ticket window. For times and fares, check www.oncf.ma

Grand Taxis are shared Mercedes taxis, and cost about 20% - 50% more than a bus on the same route, they are worth considering. If there are enough in your party to fill one taxi (6 passengers or the equivalent in fares) you can ask the driver to make stops to take photographs. It’s always best to settle on a price before you go. Note that sharing a car with 5 other passengers can be very cramped. Some people like to pay for two seats to assure a comfortable ride. Make sure you know what locals are paying for a particular trip as grand taxi drivers are notorious for jacking up the fare for unsuspecting foreigners. In general, you can count on paying 7-10 DH for every thirty km. Stations for grand taxis are scattered throughout Marrakesh. Depending on destination you may have to leave from Bab Doukala, Bab Rob,Jama’a Al-Fana, Bab Aghmat, etc. The biggest down-side of Grand Taxis is the way the drivers sometimes drive.

Rental Cars and Driving in Morocco: Because of the various problems involved, we

strongly discourage you from driving in Morocco. The major international car rental

agencies are represented in Marrakesh as are seemingly dozens of local companies. Charges among the international companies vary only slightly so it is worthwhile to check with a number of locally-run agencies where rates are often significantly lower. Most agencies will ask for a credit card. A government tax of 19% must be paid on all rentals. Almost all cars take Moroccan diesel which is about 10 DH/liter. For information on drivers licenses, see the section below.

Rental agencies in Gueliz include:

Avis: 137 Mohammed V Avenue, Ph: 524-43-37-23

Budget: 213 Mohammed V Avenue, Ph: 524-43-46-04

Hertz: 157 Mohammed V Avenue, Ph: 524-43-46-80

LElSURE

Films, Music, Plays

There are two main movie theaters in Marrakesh which show films in French or Arabic. One is the Colisee downtown and the other is Megarama, located a little ways (a taxi ride) outside of Marrakesh on the road to Ourika. The only movie theater that can be recommended is the Colissee which is air- conditioned, and quite comfortable. The films are mostly US box office hits dubbed in French.

Institut Francais de Marrakech (The French Cultural Center) the largest in the continent of Africa, runs an interesting program of films, plays and musical performances (look for posters and brochures near the front desk at the CLC).

ESAV (Ecole Supérieur des arts visuels) of Marrakech is a school built on an American model specializing in film, graphic arts, sound recording, etc. ESAV has regular showings of films in their original languages --- in most cases, English--- which are open to the public and free.

Hammam

The so-called “Turkish” or “Moorish” baths are considered not just places to get really

clean, but also to relax, waste an hour or so, and see friends, and so we include them as leisure. Talk to someone at the CLC about the best (and correct) way to go for a hammam bath.

Traditional Sites

The CLC normally arranges a tour of some of the traditional sites of Marrakesh for visiting teachers and students.

A great way to come to know Marrakech is to take a horse-carriage ride around the old

city walls. Slightly different tours are available but you should expect to pay about 80-100Dh for a one hour to hour and a half tour. These coaches can be rented in front of the Hotel Menara (off Place de la Liberte, lower right hand corner of map).

About taking Pictures

Although most Moroccans are not overly sensitive to having their picture taken,

indiscriminately photographing people is not advisable: ask first. There are still instances when one may encounter a hostile attitude by certain Moroccans at having a camera pointed in their direction, and since this relates to religious beliefs, it is certainly better to opt for sensitivity.

In addition, there are certain scenes – for example, of police or military sites --- which you are not allowed to photograph.

Tour Guides and Hustlers

Marrakesh used to have a bad reputation for rather aggressive “faux guides” (non-official

guides, basically, hustlers). In the past few years, however, the city has made great strides to eliminate this problem by instituting the “Tourist Brigade”, special police who circulate in the Medina and made sure people aren’t getting hassled. If on your excursions into the Medina, you are approached by an effusive, “friendly” young man offering to show you the way, do not mistake this for sincere friendliness or local the street, except to ask for information; therefore, you should normally ignore such advances, or politely refuse their services, ideally in Arabic, explaining you are living and studying in Marrakesh. If one encounters a particularly persistent hustler, you might look for a policeman or agent of the Tourist Brigade, since pestering foreigners is against the law. Also keep in mind that anything you buy when accompanied by a clandestine guide will be more expensive, since he’ll get a percentage from the shop owner.

IN AND AROUND MARRAKESH

Eating Out

There are numerous sandwich/snack places near the CLC. For non-Moroccan food (pizzas, pasta, sandwiches, salads, and brochettes), you can try Pinchos (5 m walk from the CLC, marked on map below) or the Grilliardière (15 m walk from the CLC, near the Eglise Sainte Anne church, lower central portion of map). In both places the waiters are supposed to be able to speak English.

For a nicer, reasonably-priced sit-down dinner, try the Catanzaro Restaurant (10 m walk from the CLC on Rue Tariq ben Ziad next to Hotel Touloussain marked on map). They serve Italian, steaks, and salads. (Note: if you eat meat, it is generally better to order it well-done (bien cuit) rather than rare. “Bien-cuit” often means it comes out medium by US standards. The Catanzaro is almost always full at lunch hour (1 pm) and dinner hour, (around 9). Go a little earlier to find a table or call for reservations (0524-43-37-31). The lady and her husband who run the place both speak English.

For Moroccan food, there are many places, from the low-cost to the world-

renown. A good compromise is to try Dar Fassia (on Zerktouni Blvd, on the other side of the street from the Franco-Belge Hotel (see map, just above the marker for the Hotel Touloussain). Twenty to thirty dollars a person depending on what you order.

For those in need of the familiar, there is a McDonald’s on Blvd. Muhammad V directly across from the post office (see map), a Kentucky Fried Chicken, on the other side of the traffic circle from Mac D’s, and a Pizza Hut a little ways up the boulevard (at the corner of Ave. Mohammed V and Rue Sebou). All of these are about 10 minutes on foot from the CLC.

Shopping

If you plan to buy any items of handicrafts during your stay in Marrakesh, you might start with a visit to the Artisanal Handicrafts Center on Avenue Mohammed V, near the Kutubia Mosque. This place offers shops to the best crafts people of the city, is government supported, and has fixed prices. It will give you a chance to see the range of items made in Marrakesh at prices that are at least visible and fixed when you start.

Afterwards, if you wish to set out on a bargaining adventure, you will at least have a frame of reference.

For the items you might find in a Walmart or Target in the US (groceries, appliances small and large, batteries, etc. etc. ) you will probably end up going to Marjane (first) or Aswaq Salam, or – for mostly groceries --- Acima (one of which is five minutes from the CLC).

For grocery shopping, the main advantage is selection and speed. Otherwise, it is definitely an interesting cultural phenomenon watching veiled ladies and tourists wait in the same check-out line.

Places of Worship

Islam is the state religion of Morocco, and since one of the religious duties of Muslims is to offer devotions five times a day, there are mosques virtually everywhere in the country. There is hardly a public building anywhere without a room set aside as a prayer room, and even gas stations off the freeways of the country offer little mosques for their customers. At the same time, freedom of worship is guaranteed by law for those of other faiths. Marrakesh has a synagogue (about five minutes from the CLC, and usually part of the visits students make), and a Christian church (about 10 minutes from the CLC, see map, lower central portion, for Eglise Sainte Anne) where ecumenical Sunday services are held. At least one English-speaking Catholic brother is attached to this church.

LEGAL AND RISK MANAGEMENT ISSUES

Drugs

Although you may encounter kif and hashish being smoked openly, keep in mind that it is

illegal, and some police take great pleasure in applying this law to foreigners. The inside of a Moroccan jail is an experience no one wants to have.

Alcoholic Beverages

Although alcoholic beverages are available in Morocco, we discourage your consumption of them there. Drinking alcohol is more than simply an intoxicating beverage in Morocco, it is also for the most part a symbol signifying disregard for traditional Moroccan culture. While available in Morocco, alcoholic beverages are consumed only by foreigners, by those Moroccans who are distancing themselves from Moroccan culture and who are attempting to demonstrate that they are more Western than they are Moroccan, and by those unfortunate Moroccans who (like alcoholics in the West) lose themselves in a life of alcohol. Homestay families come from all walks of Moroccan life, but they will all be Muslim families since Morocco is 99% Muslim. Alcohol and pork products are not consumed in Muslim households. It would be extremely bad adab to bring alcoholic beverages into a home or to go out drinking and come home intoxicated or smelling of alcohol. This would be both against the ways and values of the household and would also be setting a bad example. In addition, while traveling (especially in planes, airports, and hotels), we also discourage drinking alcoholic beverages because they will increase the possibility of impairment in judgment, which impairment may not only affect the individual student but may also have repercussions that could affect the entire group.

Religion and Politics

Although Morocco is tolerant and has signed the Bill of Human Rights, there is still a law

on the book that prohibits trying to convert Moroccans from Islam to another religion, and any school which is involved in this can be closed down and fined heavily.

By Moroccan law, it is prohibited to publicly criticize the Royal Family, and discussions

that might lead in this direction are not encouraged.

Identification Cards:

Moroccans must keep their identity cards with them at all times.

Likewise, you will be expected to have your passport with you, except when we collect it. You should carry a plasticized photocopy of the information page of your passport and the page showing the entry stamp. If you are travelling by road outside Marrakesh, you may very rarely be asked to show your passport or residency card by police performing routine security checks throughout Morocco. You must have your passport when you check into any hotel when traveling.

Drivers Licenses:

The police generally recognize drivers licenses from other countries. On account of the short time you will be in Morocco, your busy schedule, and your unfamiliarity with Moroccan driving customs, we strongly discourage you from driving in Morocco.

CLIMATE

The climate variations in a country like Morocco are endless. In general, though, Marrakesh, being in a semi-desert region, is quite hot and dry in the summer and cold in the winter. The average daily maximum temperature during May is 85 and June is 90.

For a yearly chart that shows Marrakesh and the entire country in, check

http://www.morocco-travel.com/morocco/TemperaturesWeather/

CULTURAL NOTES ON THE LAND AND ITS PEOPLE

Below are some very abbreviated notes. As mentioned at the beginning of this manual, readings from the bibliography on page 13 are highly recommended. The section has been adapted from a piece written by the director of the CLC Marrakech for Teaching EFL Outside the United States, TESOL Publications, 1992.

The Land Itself:

The Kingdom of Morocco is geographically a true crossroads. If you

stand on the beach in Tangier on a clear day, you can see the coast of Spain. If you stand on a beach of Agadir, you can look out over the Atlantic and know that about 4000 miles away is New York. Travel over the Atlas Mountains to Zagora and you’ll find a sign telling you that Timbuktu is a 55 day camel ride to the south. In the east stretches Arab North Africa, Egypt, and the Arabian peninsula.

Physically and climatically, Morocco is somewhat like a marriage of California (from San Francisco south) and New Mexico: miles of coastline, mountain ranges affording skiing and hiking through pine and cedar forests, sparsely vegetated plains broken by reddish mesas, and finally, in the south, sand deserts with the palm trees and camels that have provided Americans with their stereotypes of the country ever since films such as The Road to Morocco. (For a view of Marrakesh in the mid-Fifties, see Alfred Hitchcock’s The Man Who Knew Too Much, 1956. The opening scenes of this film on the bus also provide a good example of Hollywood stereotyping of Arab or Muslim people.

Any comparison with California ends on the geographical level. Socially, Morocco is still, to a large extent, a land of traditions where a generally tolerant and rather “organic” version of Islam is practiced by most of the inhabitants. Like the geometric patterns so characteristic of its decorative art, the culture of Morocco is an intricate weave of several thematic strands: traditional, modern, Islamic, Arab, Berber, Sephardic Jew, European and African. Marrakesh is one of the more striking examples of this interweaving of cultures and times, epitomized in the Jemalfna (pronounced Je MAALF naa) –the large open place near the entrance to the old city, which, with its snake charmers, musicians, acrobats, fortune-tellers, tourists and country folk of typically Marrakshi (Arabic for someone or something from Marrakesh).

Unlike Rabatis who are often described in Moroccan Arabic as dakhleen suq ras hum, (literally, inside the business of their own heads, meaning those who mind their own business) or Fassis, who are often described as being somewhat closed to non-fassis, the people of Marrakesh are known throughout Morocco for their warmth, their humor, and their outgoing nature. These qualities, however, may sometimes strike a newcomer from America as overly familiar or even invasive.

As in other cities of Morocco, probably the most important quality one needs in order to adjust to Marrakesh is patience. The city and its people take time to discover and appreciate.

Time:

Simple tests can show how different our concepts of time can be. You may have a chance to experience this in Marrakesh, where, even in the middle of the hustle bustle, things can move much more slowly than in the United States. This is going to sometimes going to require patience on your part.

For the ordinary Moroccan on the street, time itself has a qualitative side to it that

sometimes frustrates Westerners. To sit for a half an hour with a shopkeeper may seem

inefficient to someone used to being able to accomplish a dozen different things in a single morning, but for Moroccans this human contact has great value. (Needless to say, there are Americans whose lives are slower than Moroccans and Moroccans who are every bit as busy as someone living in Manhattan!)

What Language do they speak here, anyway?

Of particular interest to anyone who will be teaching a foreign language to [or getting to know] students from Marrakesh is the fact that, in general, they are excellent language learners. Consider that in many homes in and around Marrakesh, the s/he will start using Moroccan Arabic (derija). Upon entering elementary school, s/he must learn standard Arabic, which is constitutionally the official language of Morocco. In the public schools, French is taught as a second language beginning at primary levels (roughly 3rd grade in the American system), and is seen both officially and in practice as a “language of opening” (langue douverture). Despite the program of Arabization that has gone on for years, French remains a vital language in Morocco, as evidenced by the fact that all science classes at the university level are still in French.

English is offered as a “second foreign language” when students reach the first year of

high school, roughly the 9th grade in the US system. Even in the few high schools where

Spanish and German are offered as other choices, English is the overwhelming favorite. As of this writing (June, 2000), many private schools are introducing English to 8 and 9-year olds, and there is a proposal to do the same in public schools.

There are several factors that contribute to the tremendous popularity of English in

Morocco. One is that English is outside the Arabic-French polarity, providing an opening to western culture/technology without being the language of the former colonists of Morocco. Another lies in its vitality. English is the language of the most popular pop music, TV, and films (even though these are dubbed in French), and since around 1997, the language of the Internet.

Lastly, the pedagogical approach used to teach English in high schools, despite certain

drawbacks, is generally ahead of the pedagogy used in other subjects.

What about Arabic?

For those of you who have never lived in an Arab country before, and even for some of those who have, a word of explanation about Arabic is in order. Modern Standard Arabic (MSA) is the language of the news media, written correspondence and documents, literature and formal speeches. Moroccan Arabic (derija, pronounced DE ri ja, with the “j” being pronounced like the “g” in “beige”) is the people’s language and is generally unwritten. Both of these are derived from “fus’ha,” (classical Arabic), the Arabic of the Quran. For a Moroccan, someone (other than a scholar) speaking MSA would appear overly formal. Derija is an intimate, friendly, and rather easy language.

Islam:

Though Morocco is legally-speaking a secular state, Islam remains the official state religion and 98% of Moroccans are at least nominally Muslim of the prevalent Sunni school (rather than the Shi’a as in Iran). It is indicative that among the titles of His Majesty King Mohammed VI of Morocco is “Prince of Believers” (Amir al-mu’minin), an ancient title used by the early Caliphs of Islam. Although Morocco has had its “fundamentalist” movements and has seen three suicide bombings, the first and worst of which occurred in May, 2003 (one month after the U.S. entered Iraq), violence perpetrated in the name of Islam remains extremely rare and very contrary to the Moroccan nature. At the same time, there has been a subtle but perceptible resurgence of Islam as a guiding force in the lives of many Moroccans. This tendency is, on the whole, not zealously exclusive as evinced by the ubiquitous scene of a veiled Moroccan female student (and by veiled is meant with hair covered, not wearing a face veil) walking arm-in-arm with a girlfriend in tight jeans. Such a sight, in fact, speaks volumes about Moroccan tolerance.

Dress:

Somewhat related to the question of Islam is the question of dress. There are many variations in the personal interpretation of what is “proper” clothing. Most city-dwelling Moroccans are fairly tolerant in their attitudes and do not expect foreigners to adhere to local dress codes which often vary dramatically from person to person anyway. However, this does not mean that anything goes. Few Moroccan men, for example, would appear on the street wearing above the knee shorts or shirtless except at the beach.

Moroccan women who do dress in tight jeans and low-cut tops are very aware of what

kind of response their attire will attract, and presumably know how to react, or not react,

to comments by Moroccan men. All this, however, enters into a Moroccan social dynamic which although it is interesting to us as scholars, is not directly relevant to the general guidelines for how you, as guests in Morocco, should dress. In general, however, we recommend to both female and male visiting students (and teachers) to choose clothes that do not show off the body. This means loose rather than tight, higher necklines rather than lower, short sleeves rather than sleeveless, and so forth.

We would also prefer that you not bring or wear the following:

· T-shirts or hats with either images or words that could be offensive;

· Clothes, hats, or back packs which display the American flag --since even though America’s image has improved greatly since the election of President Obama, there is still a ways to go;

· Above the knee shorts, shirts or trousers with holes in them, tank tops.

Especially for Women:

The role of women in Moroccan society has been undergoing many changes in the past twenty years. Nevertheless, traditional attitudes concerning the roles of men and women are still prevalent among both men and women in all walks of society. These attitudes may differ considerably from those in western societies.

The greatest problems most American female students will encounter are attempts to get

attention by men on the streets, generally consisting of little more than “bonjour” or “hello.” This treatment is not reserved for foreigners. Moroccan women receive similar advances, and are generally aware that, while extremely annoying, such advances are seldom physically threatening. Such behavior is not acceptable and a response is not expected. Don’t worry about being “rude”: it is not impolite to ignore a stranger’s greetings or questions in the street; to respond -even in a negative way - is to offer them reason to continue bothering you.” It goes without saying that invitations from unknown men to “meet their families” should be flatly refused.

If anyone becomes particularly persistent, rude, or difficult to avoid, call him to someone

else’s attention. Other Moroccans- both men and women- are often more than willing to

intervene when they see someone in need of help and won’t hesitate to chastise someone

whom they see behaving shamefully. If you are ever followed more than once by the same man, contact the administration rather than try to deal with him on your own.

As in any urban situation, the best way to ensure one’s safety in Morocco is by avoiding

deserted places and sticking to areas where there are plenty of people around to help should you have any difficulties. Women in Morocco, more often than not, go out of the house in pairs or groups, and you will rarely find a woman on the streets by herself after dark. While this is by no means necessary for teachers, having a Moroccan companion to show you around the city, at least initially, will go a long way toward making your stay in Marrakesh an enjoyable experience. As mentioned earlier, dressing modestly will also help.

Generally speaking, women who go out walking in the evening do so in pairs or in groups. Single women, depending on how they are dressed, could be mistaken for prostitutes (which do exist in Marrakesh, but certainly not in the numbers found in large US or European cities).

Male-Female Relationships:

Relations between men and women in Morocco differ considerably from those in America and Europe. Students in the UGA-Morocco summer program should try to be sensitive to these differences, as misunderstandings can lead to hurt feelings, resentment, and occasionally physically threatening situations. Strong, non-romantic friendships between members of the opposite sex are far less common in Morocco than in Europe or the US, and these are generally formed and maintained within the structure of family gatherings, work, or school. The couples you will see walking together or in cafes are most often their fiancés. This is not to say that male- female friendships do not exist.

Should you find yourself drawn into a relationship that seems to be moving in a more intimate than a platonic direction, whether you’re male or female, make sure you know what you’re getting into. Outside of schoolyard flirtations, much of the dating that does go on in Morocco occurs with marriage as the eventual aim. Some couples, in fact, are not allowed to date until after their engagement. If you have no intention of getting married with a Moroccan in whom you are interested, it’s wise to make sure that the other interested party (and his or her family) share your feelings. If you find yourself in an ambiguous situation of this type, seek the advice of a Moroccan friend or the directors of the program.